Contact

Contact: leatherooseats@gmail.com

Friday, December 10, 2010

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Skeletons Work

Here is my latest seat and I have called it the Skeletons Work.
Thanks for looking.

Saturday, August 28, 2010

Friday, August 20, 2010

Bracer/Cuff

New leather cuff with eagle design. Roo lacing to tie.
For sale now...$30 for one or $50 for a pair.

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Slideshow problem

Slideshow wont load properly...hope to have it fixed soon
cheers
caroline

Leather covered bangle

Here is a torque bangle that i have covered in kangaroo leather. For sale now..$30

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

HD seat

Just finished the HD seat...lettering takes such a long time!!!

Friday, July 30, 2010

Biomechanical Solo Seat

New solo seat for sale  $300 with free postage in Australia.  Made on a 3mm steel pan with mounting bolts welded in place.  One inch of neoprene foam, carved biomech design and kangaroo lacing.

Monday, July 26, 2010

Back Rests for trike

Here are couple of backrests that i made for my new friend Mark's trike
.

Lace cutter and beveller from BWR whips

I have been playing with my new favourite toy that i received from Beven at http://www.bwrwhips.com/
It works like a dream. I would never have thought that bevelling lace could be so easy. Soon as i finish up my precut roo i will be giving the cutting part a go.  Thanks Beven.



Sunday, July 18, 2010

Barebones seat on polished pan

This seat has been made for a show trike. No padding with the leather  riveted to a polished pan.

Friday, July 16, 2010

Monday, June 28, 2010

loopless dog lead

Here is todays effort.  A loopless dog lead.  I have never been happy with the way a regular dog lead feels in the hand so i have made this loopless lead.  It will be used for obedience and agility.  Easy on, easy off.  Three different colors of kangaroo 3mm  lacing, black, green and brown. Six strand braid with decorative knots.

Friday, June 18, 2010

How I make a leather mask

  • This is a hairdressing head used for teaching, the hair has been cut offand the head sliced in half and mounted on a board.

  • Using 2mm leather, i cut a rough shape of leather, this depends on the shape of the  mask...big..small....wide...tall..


  • With this mask i had a general idea of what i wanted, so i cut the basic shape and then cut some long skinny bits and the section for the nose and the split that i knew i wanted at the top of the head. Time to wet the leather..i give it about 30 secs in warm water until no more bubbles appear.











  • Now comes the fun part..time to pinch and bend the leather into the shape you want. Sometimes the leather dictates where the folds and flaps and stickie out bits will be...i find this also depends on the begining shape you have cut.The photo below shows the half way mark of the shaping, note the little claps and pins, these help keep the folds where you want them until they dry a bit. Remember to use a strip of leather under the clamps so you dont get marks on the leather.













  • Here is the mask with both sides done. It was quite hard to get both sides the same and have made a note to self when doing a mask like this to work each side as i go and not to complete one side and then have to work to get the other the same















  • Here is the finished mask ready for drying. Note that i have removed the clamps. The leather will stay in place now and if the clamps are left on you will get marks as the leather dries.




  • Note that i have cut off two of the danglely things at the bottom, they werent working so off the went. I often cut and trim as the mask forms. Sometimes you have these great ideas but they dont always look right.
  • As the mask dries i tend to fiddle a bit, fixing edges, improving curls. I find the half way point of drying is a good time to get the modeling tool out and smoothe the leather where needed.
  • Below you can see the finished mask all dry, just waiting to be painted.

  •  And here she is after airbrushing.